By T.S. Akers
Scottish Rite caps on display in the McAlester Scottish Rite Temple
This is the second post in a
two-part series on properly caring for Masonic history. In the first
installment, the basic steps for preserving books, records, documents, and photographs
were addressed. This installment will deal with the artifacts that comprise the
material culture of Freemasonry, which can range from textiles to metals and
porcelain, with just about everything in between.
Preserving Artifacts and Miscellanea
Atmospheric Conditions
There are certain atmospheric
conditions that need to be maintained when storing and displaying artifacts of
a wide range of composition. Again, if you are comfortable, they are
comfortable. As previously discussed with paper items, the best temperature setting
remains 70°F
with a variation of plus or minus 2°F. The target relative humidity is 50
percent, but 30 to 55 percent is an acceptable range. A relative humidity below
30 percent is too dry for vellum and similar materials (think leather), metal
corrodes at 55 percent, and mold grows at 65 percent. One method for reducing
the relative humidity in a space is to run the heater to reach a stable
atmosphere. A small hygrometer can help with monitoring conditions in storage areas as well as display cases.
Where to Buy:
Housekeeping is a vital aspect to
be considered with artifacts storage and display. Textiles and other items
produced from animal skins are prone to attracting pests that can cause great
amounts of damage to the items. Spaces need to be kept clear of the human detritus
that can lead to bug infestations. Items stored and displayed should be checked
regularly to ensure no pests have made their way into them. Sticky traps are
especially useful to help identify what sort of pests are around. An easy way
to eliminate bugs from a wool garment for example is to place it in a freezer
for around 72 hours. Mothballs should be avoided altogether as they are also
toxic to humans. Repeated and prolonged exposure to the fumes from mothballs could
result in cataracts as wells a liver and kidney damage. Cedar wood is of course
an age-old remedy for keeping moths at bay, but it does this through the
release of oils, which can negatively impact textiles should they come in
physical contact with the wood for an extended period.
Storage
Storing assorted artifacts is like
storing documents, in that archival materials should be employed, but there is
also the need to build mounts in containers to ensure that no damage occurs. Archival
boxes come in a variety of sizes to meet differing needs, but there are also
some other options. Plastic tubs can be employed, but only safe plastics such
as polypropylene should be used as others can off-gas volatile acids. Storage
containers should be lined with acid free tissue paper.
Where to Buy:
When storing textiles such as
aprons and garments, care should be taken to avoid creating creases in the
object. If a garment needs to be folded for storage, use acid free tissue paper
to stuff the item so creases are more like rolls. Aprons should be stored flat
and can be stacked if a buffer, such as acid free tissue paper or unbleached
muslin, is placed between each apron. If hanging garments, be sure to pad the
hangers to reduce stress on the garment. Garments that have long hung on simple
wire hangers usually exhibit a major stress crease where the weight of the
garment has pulled it down. Headwear may require that it be stuffed with acid
free tissue paper to best maintain its shape. Never seal any of these items in
plastic bags, such as those used for “wedding dress preservation.” Textiles
need to be in environments with some air movement.
An example of a hanger that has been padded and then covered with muslin
Flags present their own
difficulties when it comes to storage and storing them flat is not always
feasible. The best solution here is often to roll the flag over a muslin
covered cardboard tube. Gaylord Archival has an excellent resource on rolling
and storing flags.
For fragile items, such as
porcelain, foam inserts should be cut and placed into storage boxes to ensure
the piece is secured against any movement that could lead to damage. A polyethylene
foam that will not off-gas should be used for creating such inserts.
Display
There are a multitude of display
techniques available. In general, the same concepts used in storing artifacts
should be applied to displaying them. Ensuring that the item does not become
damaged is the key. For example, a display case with a wood bottom should be
lined with unbleached muslin to provide a buffer between the wood and the
artifacts within. Foam rings, wrapped in muslin, can be used to mount bowls in
a position to see any interior decorations and secure them from potential
movement that could lead to damage. To prevent creases from forming in the
sleeves of garments, they can be stuffed with acid free tissue paper. The rule to live by is, do nothing to an item that cannot be reversed, be it regarding display or storage.
A porcelain bowl resting upon a "donut" style mount
Where to Buy:
Conservation and Restoration 
The nature of the material culture
of Freemasonry is that some of it remains in use, longer after it was produced.
This is part of the traditions of the Fraternity and care should be given to
these items so that they last for future generations. Cleaning and repair of certain regalia items should be standard practice.
Regarding cleaning textiles, some
will mention using a “reputable dry cleaner.” Accidents can happen at any dry
cleaner, so it may be best to consult a conservator if an item is extremely
delicate. Some items can be handwashed using an extra gentle cleanser, such as Orvus
WA Paste. Gently going over an item with an inexpensive garment steamer is the
easiest way to bring textiles back to life. Additionally, minor sewing repairs
to garments to stabilize them, such as securing linings or braids, is perfectly
acceptable.
A British Hussars tunic with replaced toggles and repaired braid
Masonic aprons are a common
artifact that many will encounter. They also can be some of the most delicate
and are made of a variety of materials including leather, velvet, satin,
cotton, silk, or any combination thereof. Silk aprons are incredibly difficult
to maintain, as silk shreds or shatters as it ages. Additionally, there is
weighted silk, which was widely popular in the nineteenth century. Weighted
silk is created by chemically treating the silk to make it heavier, a process
which damages the silk, causing it to deteriorate at an expedited rate. Silk
items can be stabilized with backing materials and sometimes with a net
overlay. When dealing with silk that exists in a precarious state, a
conservator should be enlisted.
Masonic jewels are another common
item found in collections. As they are quite likely to be worn by many
successive generations, they should be properly maintained. Replacing worn out
ribbons and suspension links should be done as needed. This will help to ensure
that jewels with multiple parts are maintained together. Major repairs, such as
enameling, plating, or any items that require soldering should be performed by
a competent jeweler. Light polishing is fine for these items that will continue
to be used.
A Past Grand High Priest jewel, before and after restoration
Handling
Just like with handling documents,
handling artifacts is often best done with an ungloved hand. As stated in the previous
post, a gloved hand lacks the tactility of an ungloved hand, which can lead to
accidents that might cause damage to an item. Before handling any items, hands
should be washed thoroughly and dried completely. Do not apply any lotion and
remove any jewelry.
Additional Resources
While this has been an overview of
basic principles, there are several resources available that may answer
specific questions and provide more detail on particular topics.
Available online:
Books:
Exhibits for the Small Museum:
A Handbook
by Arminta Neal
ISBN: 0910050236
Great Exhibits!: An Exhibit
Planning and Construction Handbook for Small Museums
by Beth Hansen
ISBN: 9781442270763
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